This will be the fifth time I start this chit-chat. I did not start to write it to deliver some history, opinion, and facts about the popular middle eastern snack dish. It's a falafel right no biggie? A sandwich we know and some love from the middle east right? Well, let me tell you…
It was the mid-90s and I was in love; I had a rent-controlled apartment on McDougal and was bartending all in the heart of Greenwich Village. One night after work, I set out on my usual Wednesday night which included stopping by Boxer's restaurant to say “hi,” to the girlfriend. She worked opposite shifts to me most nights; Head down West 4th St.and chatting with Rodney, the resident homeless man whom I'd come to befriend over many years, who would walk the girlfriend home after every shift for me to make sure she got home okay. Finally, I’d hook a right off 4th Street and on to McDougal's to slink into a wildly uncomfortable bar stool of an overrated Irish toilet and order a beer.
Terrance Patrick, the bartender, and I had loads of history at this point; we could bitch to each other for hours on end about the day’s triumphs and tragedies. He was always eager to try new the next new thing and had an appetite for red meat that could rival a lion. Terry knew food but more importantly, our pallets largely agreed. Bloodthirsty as fuck, we always found time to hit the meatpacking district in our joint search for the next big hunk of meat. We would chat and depending on the night.. back a few down together.
One night, as I approached the bar, I noticed that Mamoun's falafel place had an unusually long line. I asked Terry about it since it was literally 3 feet away (I knew what they were but hadn't seen past my recently acquired hate for vegetarians to actually try one yet). "NYU is back," that now seemed to make more sense, a bunch of entitled well-to-do trust fund fucks with little or no knowledge of the world that hadn't been put into print. The kind of kids that were always eager to jump on the next trend. “You ever try one of those fucking things I asked?” “Yeah dude, they're good,'' Terry replied. My world shattered in an instant. It occurred to me that I may have missed something and more importantly I had not been the first to discover what so many already seemed to know. Remember this was Terry, the king of meat? These kids got a leg up on me? My friend Terry was holding out? What kind of soulless shit pit is this? I paid my tab and got in line.
Now here is the thing and where it starts to mess with you. The falafel sandwich that I had that day was in fact an Israeli invention. This was a sandwich that happen to have falafel in it. So the world will concede that the falafel sandwich is indeed an Israeli invention, however, the falafel itself is not. When you think of the french your mind almost instantly thinks of wine and cheese, Italy evokes checkered tablecloths and a funny accent as you say pasta aloud and America has become synonymous with the burger. A newly formed Jewish state with a relevant food-associated icon missing had to pick one and quickly in an effort to unify the Jewish people with the new land of Israel and Gifite fish was not going to cut it... The necessity of something of this nature is integral to the identity of a land and they knew it. Very quickly integrated as a social icon into the Jewish state as the unification icon the falafel was chosen, copied and ripped off and it all happen almost overnight.
This is all well and done except that history suggests that the falafel’s original origin, the oldest recorded, is that it was the Egyptians most likely and certainly not the Israelis. Not originally made of chickpeas but rather of fava beans (Tameya) the Ta’amiya (falafel) was first brought around the world by the Coptic Christian community in part as a meat substitute for religious days. The Egyptian people, and now I also, prefer the version with the fava beans over the much easier-to-make falafel with chickpea.
Fava beans are a titanic pain to work with, they’re tough as fuck and have heavy shells which require a bit of effort to coax off. They have led modern production tech to split the uncooked bean to make handling easier. Their flavor is creamier and richer to me than its darker-colored counterpart. The process Is identical and I will share it at the end hell I may just show you. Egyptians are gentle and delicate in their herb use and for this reason, Ta’amiya are not as green; they are flavored with fresh garlic, ground cumin, and coriander making it a very flavorful bite. Flour is only added when nothing else can be done. Frankly, I have found at this point, after making so many, that it is best to just to start over. Thinking of using canned beans? Don’t. Give up now and move along. When you do get it right it's special, an accomplishment for the ages, and one you won't soon forget.
The Egyptian people, unlike the Israelis, don't put Ta’amiya inside pita bread, they serve pita bread on the side and the Ta’amiya is served as an accompanying side dish usually with pickled veg., full, and eggplant salad (spicier more mustardy take on baba ganoush). Kids' meals here may consist of a mini Ta’amiya sandwich but otherwise, they are on a plate.
Regardless of its origin, eating and cooking falafel or Ta’amiya becomes more interesting and exciting because of its engagement with so much history. It includes you in that history of discovery and sharing. The whole point of cooking in the first place. I don't see it as a plate or sandwich anymore. I don't take its history and simplicity for granted anymore. I understand its importance not only as a food source but as an intricate regional, religious, and political icon that has traveled more than most. It will certainly be here for the duration.
So how to make Egyptian Ta’amiya?
This is going to sound corny but trust me. Before attempting, it's important to get in the right frame of mind, go to Spotify, and find yourself an Egyptian playlist. Incidentally, if you want a good laugh just walk up to an Egyptian and ask for an Israeli recipe for falafels. Note: wear sneakers!
I'm as lazy and rushed as the next guy so here is how I do it. I choose a mix of chickpeas & split fava beans. Keep in mind that falafel made for today needed to have
been started yesterday. And, as a side note and good to know is that hummus and falafel can be made in tandem. Both recipes' first few steps are identical. So, I usually make both and freeze the falafel mixture until I need it.
Start off with equal parts dry chickpeas and cracked dry fava beans. Let them soak overnight in plenty of water. Yes, I mean overnight! Let's say 2 cups each so there is enough to eat and some left to freeze. If you can, spend a few minutes removing as much of their husks and shells as you can. The more you remove the better but be warned, it's a labor of love to get them all.
You'll need a food processor for sure there is no way around this. The beans in my opinion do not need to be super dry as I find keeping them a tiny bit moist helps avoid the use of flour. I know, but it's my I'm Ta’amiya so shut up!
Add the following to the soaked semi-dried beans:
6 garlic cloves
Two tablespoons of ground fresh coriander
Two tablespoons of cumin powder
One tablespoon cayenne (optional if you're a big sissy!)
Two tablespoons salt
One bunch each parsley and cilantro
Grind it for a good bit but not so long that it becomes a paste.
Let it rest in the fridge for at least an hour before frying
Note: you're probably used to seeing them as little balls and that's fine however I find that small thin, patty-like style that is found all over Egypt. Flatten them out a bit. You’ll get more crunch by way of surface area. Of course, if you want balls you just want balls.
Ideally served with freshly made hummus, tahini, pita, and my hot sauce.