The lack of decent libation possibilities in Egypt has opened us up to the endless, and surprisingly tasty, non-alcoholic drink choices.
During the very hot months the heat and the flies are relentless, so refreshing fruit juice drinks are. Fresh fruits are grown all over the country and naturally they can all be juiced. Some favorites are: pomegranate, mango, strawberry, lemon and sugar cane juice. These are enjoyed year-round by locals all over Egypt. When ordering be sure to mention no sugar, medium sugar, or full sugar as Egyptians like their drinks sickly sweet.
Egyptian’s fondness for tea is not just about the drink, it is a custom which was adopted from the Arabians and has become a tradition that reflects identity and personality. Tea is legendary here, and whether it’s tea with mint or lemon; a hot very flavorful koshai tea; or a cool hibiscus flavored Karlade tea the best place to soak in the local scene is at the ahwa. The Egyptian cafe or Ahwa, located in every neighborhood, is a must do while visiting Egypt. It is full of patrons sipping Egyptian teas, Turkish and Arabic coffees; playing backgammon; and puffing away on shisha.
So what about tying-one-on?
Well, those that know me, know that I might enjoy a drink or two as much as the next guy. This is unless of course the next guy is my mother-in-law then all bets are off. All too often we find ourselves having to grow up a bit; having to put aside a vice or three in order to truly experience a new place through a host country’s eyes.
Egypt is no different and as a North African country tying-one-on gets a bit tricky. This is not to say that all Egyptians do not drink…that is not the case. A heavy Coptic population and an ever-flowing stream of tourists and expats sees to the continuous movement of libations. However, tying-one-on while visiting does require a bit of a search.
Egypt's reservations toward alcohol is in part shaped by the state's strict alcohol laws regulations which prohibits the sale and consumption of alcohol in public places, with the exception of hotels and tourist facilities approved by the Minister of Tourism. And, while the law doesn't limit the sale of alcohol exclusively to hotels, it does stymie industry growth by banning advertising and completely prohibiting sales during Ramadan and Islamic holy days.
In addition, the convoluted and mysterious process for obtaining a liquor license makes acquiring one a near impossible task for any aspiring liquor shop, bar, or small hotel. This prevents saturation of the market, but makes it difficult for the industry to change the stigma attached to drinking.
Finally, the alcohol industry in Egypt has been monopolized since 1897 by Al-Ahram Beverages. When Al-Ahram was nationalized in 1963, it acquired most production and operating licenses and is the biggest player in the industry today. Their sole competitor, Egyptian International Beverage Company, is an independent winery, struggling to expand due to problems with, you guessed it, retail licensing.
So what is available and where?
Let me be honest, the options are limited and they all suck! Those that do operate in Egypt, operate under old liquor licenses that were issued decades ago, and have no incentive to change or improve! From high prices to low quality, paltry pours tying-one-on is often more trouble than it’s worth.
Beer (Sakara, Stella, Meister) is the alcohol of choice in Egypt, amounting to 54 percent of local alcohol consumption. Egyptian wine is an acquired taste that many fail to master. Local spirits are mostly poor quality and colored to suit their name. Fair warning, they will have your head spinning. Basically, in addition to the international hotel there are three “old-license” type options to tie-one-on:
Grandfathered bars/restaurants such as Club 55 on Maddi’s famous road nine.
Modern takes on pubs such as the Tap Bar and Grill with two locations the tap east and the tap west.
Social clubs such as the Ace Club or Maadi Club which require a membership (and in some cases specific citizenship) in exchange for better prices and variety.
At all three, it’s possible to enjoy some decent eats and a few beers at a hefty price. The first two set prices four to five times what you would pay retail. A Heineken for around 110 Le (just under $10) compared to the retail price of 32 Le ($2). The margins get even bigger with wines and spirits. The third requires a membership fee ranging from a few hundred dollars to thousands, still an exorbitant price for a mediocre beer with the additional expense of having to chat with entitled expats.
New to the scene are chains of retail shops Drinkies and Cheers. Located in heavy expat populated areas they deliver a range of locally branded beverages and are starting to expand to other areas in order to cater to the larger tourist crowds. I’m sure boats leaving Luxor will soon put a ban on outside beer and spirits or risk losing sales to savvy tourists who read this Chit Chat.
So, which one do we choose? It's Drinkies at home. Look, there’s nowhere in the world quite like Egypt. From the Great Pyramids and Sphinx to the stunning Red Sea coast; Endless historic, cultural, and recreational sites to visit; food arguably even richer than Egyptian culture itself. But, at the end of the day, the fight to get a decent cocktail is usually not worth the effort, so we don’t even bother. If we do tie-one-on we keep it to weekends, house parties, or special occasions. Getting hammered here is not the best idea anyway. It’s not for everyone and for our next move we will most likely be considering more intoxication friendly nations. Cheers!