The Erasure of Palestinian Cuisine: Israel's Environmental Policies Undermine Traditional Foodways

If you’ve followed or know me at all, you know my passion for foods worldwide. I sometimes write about trusting food, different cuisines from around the world, and the use of food in social situations. The relationships between people and their ancestral cuisines. This will be the first time I write about its weaponization, and I can tell you this: I had no idea. I knew people could be cruel and clever. I did not know that they could be whatever the word is for this. I started by looking into olive tree stories because of a news show Larissa and I were watching. As I often do, I found myself going in deep down the rabbit hole, and what I discovered during this research is as inhumane a thing as I have ever seen or heard. I mean inhumane to the point that such planning of atrocities is usually reserved for some otherworldly sci-fi motion picture of an entire planet oppressed in unimaginable ways by an unstable and relentless evil. Not of this Earth. Unfortunately, I was wrong. It’s been here all along and continues today.

For decades, Israel's occupation policies and practices have systematically undermined the rich culinary heritage of Palestine. Under the guise of environmental protection, restrictive measures have targeted key ingredients and traditional foraging practices integral to Palestinian cuisine, revealing a disturbing pattern of "green colonialism." A term that, while a month ago was new to me, is now very easy to see if you’re looking—the exploitation of environmental concerns to justify the dispossession of Palestinian land and the suppression of their cultural identity.

The Destruction of Olive Groves: Severing the Connection to the Land

This is what got me going first. One of the most devastating blows to Palestinian agriculture and cuisine has been the widespread destruction of olive groves by Israeli authorities. It is estimated that over 800,000 olive trees have been uprooted since 1967, erasing a vital source of food, income, and cultural symbolism for Palestinians. Olives and olive oil are not merely ingredients but represent the enduring bond between the Palestinian people and their ancestral lands. As author Reem Kassis poignantly writes, "The relationship with the land is built into the memory of its people.”

This assault on olive cultivation has severe implications for traditional Palestinian dishes like musakhan, where taboon bread is drenched in olive oil and topped with sumac-spiced chicken and caramelized onions. You have probably had some variation on this dish if not the dish itself. While researching, it turns out Lala and I had it often in Cairo and just did not know the name. The loss of these groves severs Palestinians' connection to their culinary roots and threatens the very existence of such iconic recipes.

Criminalizing Foraging: Zaatar, Akub, and the Erasure of Cultural Memory

Beyond the olive tree, Israel has systematically restricted access to other vital ingredients through environmental policies that criminalize traditional foraging practices. In 1977, the herb za’atar, a cornerstone of Palestinian cuisine used in manaqish (flatbreads) and countless other dishes, was declared a "protected plant"—you read that right—a protected plant, making its gathering illegal. Similarly, in 2005, the same fate befell akub (gundelia), a thistle commonly used in Palestinian cooking, as its foraging was also banned under the pretext of conservation. You are starting now to see what I saw?

These measures not only deprive Palestinians of essential culinary ingredients but also sever their connection to the land. Remember when I wrote about how Israel stole the falafel seemingly overnight for cultural identity's sake at the start? The cultural memory is embedded in the act of foraging. As Palestinian chef Fadi Kattan explains, "Palestinian cooking cannot be taught outside of the Palestinian context. We cook with an instinct that relies on knowledge of tastes and aromas intertwined with our individual memories and experiences."

Green Colonialism: Hiding Displacement Under the Guise of Environmentalism

Israel's restrictive environmental policies exemplify the insidious practice of "green colonialism," where environmental concerns are exploited to justify the seizure of Palestinian land and the suppression of their traditional practices. The planting of millions of trees by the Jewish National Fund (JNF) on the ruins of depopulated Palestinian villages serves to conceal the evidence of displacement and destruction while simultaneously denying Palestinians access to the very ingredients that sustained their culinary traditions for generations.

This form of "green colonialism" not only erases Palestinian foodways but also undermines their sovereignty over their natural resources, exacerbating food insecurity and economic marginalization in the occupied territories. This is food terrorism!

The Impact on Palestinian Cuisine and Identity

The systematic erasure of Palestinian culinary traditions through these environmental policies has far-reaching consequences. It deprives the Palestinian people of their cultural heritage, the ability to prepare the dishes that have nourished their communities for generations, and undermines their sense of identity and connection to the land. Food is a fundamental aspect of any culture, and the destruction of traditional ingredients and cooking practices is a direct attack on the very fabric of Palestinian society. I think it takes seriously sinister people to even think of a way of hiding these actions disguised as environmental protection in plain sight while committing atrocities.

The banning of black goats in Palestine, also known as the Black Goat Act, was implemented by the Israeli government in 1950 under the Plant Protection Law. The law was justified on environmental grounds, claiming that the goats caused damage to vegetation and contributed to soil erosion and desertification. However, the underlying motive was to undermine Palestinian pastoral traditions and restrict their movement as part of broader efforts to control land and resources following the establishment of the state of Israel. The ban led to a significant reduction in the number of black goats and had severe impacts on Palestinian herding communities, contributing to their economic marginalization and displacement. It did make Palestinian labor widely more available since what else could they do now but work for their oppressors?

Preserving and Reviving Palestinian Cuisine: A Culinary Resistance

Despite these challenges, there is a growing movement to preserve and revive Palestinian culinary traditions as an act of cultural resistance. Chefs like Fadi Kattan and Reem Kassis are documenting and sharing traditional recipes, advocating for the protection of essential ingredients, and finding innovative ways to adapt and evolve Palestinian cuisine in the face of ongoing oppression. Through these efforts, the rich flavors, techniques, and cultural significance of Palestinian cuisine are being celebrated and passed down to future generations, ensuring that this vital aspect of Palestinian identity remains a vibrant and integral part of the global culinary landscape.

The erasure of Palestinian cuisine is a multifaceted form of cultural erasure and, yes, a not-so-new form of terrorism deeply intertwined with the broader struggle for Palestinian rights and self-determination. By understanding the tactics employed by Israel, such as "green colonialism," we can better appreciate the importance of preserving and celebrating the rich culinary heritage of Palestine as an act of resistance and solidarity. The many lives lost will not be in vain. They are in some ways a gateway to knowledge that would probably have remained hidden had it not been for their suffering. The ongoing change in perception from around the world should see a new hope for these folks. We are now serving some of these dishes at the restaurant here in Hanoi, as well as Lebanese and Egyptian dishes, and have so far been very well received.